Hot glass molds
Everybody notices elegantly fashioned glass art. Often times the skill and craftsmanship that is poured into these divine items are often overlooked. Glass is universally understood as fragile, very breakable and needs to be melted down before molding. This fact should not frighten a novice glass worker away. Knowing the items needed, following step by step instructions and awareness of safety procedures will have you well on your way to melting glass at home.
Old recycled bottles or any other glass items can be sufficient enough for starting your glass art. This is a good check list to make sure all items are accounted for and ready for use before starting this exciting craft.
A person might not be concerned about a small cut, burn or even want to wear a protective mask when melting glass. Glass safety is important. The glass needs to have heat distributed evenly to mold effectively. Silica dust can enter the lungs without a mask on, which means you are breathing glass particles.
Do not look at the beautiful glass without special infrared-blocking glasses, this can cause blindness. There are still many things to learn and know when you melt glass at home and create glass art. Bottles can be melted by draping which is letting the weight of melted glass shape over a mold at F. Glass marbles can be melted until they stick together using the tack fusing method at F. Crushed pieces can be placed inside a mold by frit casting at F. Please check out other resources on the internet or visit your local library to learn as much as you can.
Victoria Clayton has been writing professionally sinceserving as a featured writer for various online publications. She is pursuing a B. Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story.
Elegantly Fashioned Glass Art. Here are basic guidelines to melt glass at home:. Use clean glass only. For bottles with labels soak them for 8 hours to ensure there will be no imperfections on your final surface. Put on safety gear. Heat kiln to between F to F. Light the blowtorch and use to add final shaping towards the end.
Do not cool the glass art too rapidly, this will cause it to break sooner or later. Share this article. Victoria Clayton. Show Comments.This tutorial will explain how I make custom ceramic texture molds to create fused glass art. Kiln: I use a Paragon Janus 23 multi-purpose kiln capable of firing glass or ceramics with the flip of a switch! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. I've chosen a cone 6 porcelain paper clay as my ceramic medium for making texture molds because it has a very smooth surface that captures texture in great detail. The clay dries quickly, and creates lightweight molds, which is great for loading fused glass projects into the kiln and also great for storing your molds once they've been bisque fired.
Most companies ship clay in 25lb blocks with a 50lb minimum. Please note that paper clays are prone to mold if not used quickly, which doesn't affect the quality of your ceramic piece, but may cause problems for people who are sensitive to mold.
Most websites selling ceramic paper clay explain the pro's and con's of their products, along with firing instructions. Decide what texture and design you're going to create. I've created wonderful texture molds from items found in my yard: lotus leaves, lily pad leaves, tree leaves.
I've also hand-carved textures to create specific designs. Once you have your design in mind you're ready to start. Cover your work table with a drop cloth. I love using a plastic-backed fabric drop cloth because it protects my wooden work surface from the damp clay.
Open your bag of clay. Use your wire tool to cut the amount of clay you need to roll out for your project. For instance, to create the large texture mold of of the lotus leaf takes a greater amount of clay than to create a small soap dish mold. Follow basic clay techniques for rolling clay by using your rolling pin to work the clay slowly into a flat consistent thickness: Roll, flip the clay over, roll, flip the clay in a new direction, roll again until you have the desired thickness and size for your mold.
If you come across any bubbles in your clay surface while rolling the clay, poke them with a pencil tip or clay knife tip to make sure that they're gone before you proceed with smoothing and texturing the clay.Tony Patti Glass Flowers! While the student will most often encounter cast aluminum optic molds such as offered by Steinert Industries, old production glassblowing factories, often used cast iron molds and paste molds to both speed up the production as well as to produce nearly identical pieces.
Unlike the one-part one-piece Steinert aluminum optic molds, the cast iron molds and paste molds are hinged, which allows for "under-cuts" in the profile of the piece, and assures that the glass bubble on the blowpipe can be easily removed, after the mold is opened up. Cast iron molds can range from simple two-part molds, such as used to produce drinking glasses, to very elaborate three-part and four-part molds.
For those who noticed the dolly underneath the mold -- the mold weighs more than pounds 45 kgand is very difficult to move including because it is hinged and in 5 parts. This dolly, when purchased, is 30" Long x 18" Wide designed for moving furniturebut I removed the carpeting on the top, unbolted the casters, and used a circular saw to make this dolly the compact size of 18" Wide x 12" Long that you see above, perfect for moving a heavy mold around.
I did use one piece of cut-off-wood that was removed, and screwed it underneath, because the dolly, if you put your foot on one edge, had a tendency to tip over because of it's "shorter wheelbase" -- not so much a problem with a heavy mold on top, but why not add that stabilizer just to be safer. All turn-mold bottles also called a "paste mold" are round in cross section since no other shape could be turned or twisted in the mold to produce the seamless body distinctive of these bottles.
The inside surface of a turn-mold was coated with a "paste" of organic fiber often sawdust which was also wetted between each blowing. Upon contact with the very hot glass the water turned to steam.
The steam formed a cushion that the bottle "rode" on while the parison was expanded and rotated by the glassblower.
The combination of the steam cushion and the rotation contributed to a distinctive glossy or polished glass surface to a turn-mold produced bottle that other types of bottles do not have, with the exception of fire polished free-blown bottles Toulouse b; Munsey It is known that some turn-molds were made of apple or cherry wood at the Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, NJ as late as the early 20th century Lohmann Wooden molds would also be more likely to have uneven inside surfaces due to the effects of the extreme heat of the molten glass.
Because of the rotation of the bottle in the mold and the wetted paste coating, whittle marks discussed earlier are rarely if ever seen on turn-mold bottles Toulouse b; Munsey Because of the rotation of the bottle in the mold not the opposite as the name "turn-mold" would suggest embossing on the body of the bottle was impossible; labeling or the occasional blob seal was the only way to notify the product purchaser of what product the bottle contained Toulouse a Virtually all turn-mold bottles also have no embossing on the base, though some limited embossing has reportedly been observed.
This would have entailed a secondary molding base plate that replaced the original mold base plate after the bottle was rotated in the mold but before it cooled and solidified Toulouse ; Lockhart pers. In any event, base embossed turn-mold bottles are very uncommon and none have been observed by the author of this website. It is possible that many or most of the turn-mold bottles sold by American glass makers were imported and not actually produced in the U. May Jones, in the first volume of her nine volume bottle history booklets called collectively the The Bottle Trail, quotes a Owens-Illinois Company provided history that notes that their predecessor Illinois Glass Company imported the turn-mold bottles they sold and that " As noted earlier, it is known that the Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, NJ - a large producer of bottles - did manufacture turn-mold bottles with wooden molds as late as the early 20th century Lohmann In addition, Toulouse b notes that patents were granted in the U.
Although it is likely that many or even most turn-mold bottles were not made in the U. For more information click turn-molds. At April 15 displayed this www.You may also wish to choose the priority option for shipping at check out. Please always use adequate ventilation and eye protection when lampworking.
Includes everything you need but the fuel. Handheld glass rod and tubing cutter. Cuts Murrini slices too. Large Diameter Tube Cutter. Watch Video Takes only 5 minutes to melt glass to begin pulling. I have tried several and yours by far is the best I have used. Flame or Air Dry. Excellent quality. Easy to use. This is a very tough bead release. When hot, it resists crumbling.
But it loses its strength when cooled and slips the bead off easily. Can be used for Boro, too. Note: we have tried both flame and air drying this release. Air drying seems to be the most effective. Flame drying works but does not seem to be as strong. Excellent for Electric Spinner work, or by hand. Make barrel, cone, bi-cone beads and other shapes fast and smoothly with these high quality brass handheld bead rollers.
Brass rolls easily with your hot glass, forming a smooth glass surface. Rigid fiberglass handle.
Re-sharpen on fine sandpaper. Stainless Steel Double Ended Rake. There is a hole through the bottom for access, or clamp beads with the hole to the side. Steel construction. Nylon holder pads that won't damage beads.
Tungsten resists wear and sticking from high heat. Lasts and lasts. Hang rods over the edge above your torch while you work to keep the ends hot, or place Murinni on the screen well in front of your torch, out of your way. Watch Video. Razor Blade Sculpting tool.Glass Hot Pour into Mold Mix 6 Mold at Hudson Beach Glass - Fish Part 1
Comes with one replaceable razor. Will hold different shaped razor blades as well. Handy glass working tool. Now with wider Marver and slots for smaller and Pandora mandrels.
Slots are for shaping the ends of your bead. Slide it over the mandrel and push toward your bead. Use the flat sides as a marver.A fiberglass mold is rather simple to make, but it takes a few days.
The idea of a mold is to make a replica of the item that you need. You will be able to reuse the mold many times after. It will be easier and take less time if you are able to find a mold of your liking at a company that specializes in making fiberglass molds. Develop a plug. A plug is an article that is used to develop a mold. It is usually made out of wood, plaster, putty, sheet metal or Formica. The plug will need to be in the shape and the right dimensions that you want the mold to be.
Prepare plug. If the plug has many opene pours, such as wood, plaster or putty, then it will need to be filled in with resin or lacquer. Buff and seal the plug with TR and TR If plaster is being used, you will need to oven dry it first and then seal it.
Apply a mold release which is Partall Paste 2. After applying the mold release, wait until it dries before putting on another. You will apply up to five coats. Buff it each timel.
Spray polyvinyl alcohol PVA to the plug. Apply up to three coats and allow at least 30 minutes to dry. Cover the plug with MEK peroxide hardener. Apply a gelcoat with a bristle roller on the plug that will make the fiberglass mold surface.
The gelcoat needs to be wax free. Consider using a tooling gelcoat if there are many parts that will need to be removed from the mold. This will enhance the longevity of the mold.
Shot Glass Mold by Celebrate It®
There will need to be at least two coats applied with 4 hours of drying in between coats. Allow at least 24 hours to fully dry.Wooden molds work on what we call the Air Hockey Principle. When hot glass touches wet wood, a steam cushion is formed, producing a smooth, even surface on the glass. These molds are excellent for shorter runs of between and pieces, depending on shape and tolerances. Metal molds have a long history in glassblowing. Available in Brass, Iron and Aluminum, metal molds work for shapes that have embossed detail or that can't be turned.
Graphite has the unique qualities of very long life with less thermal thievery to produce a consistent shape for years and years.
Order Through Olympic Color Rods This is an easy way to make a wood mold for blowing round glasses or vases or anything like that. The construction of this mold is inspired by a Czech or Russian that's my guess style mold that I came across while living in Denmark. This Instructable won't go too deep into the skill it takes to blow the pieces, but if you want to blow the pieces yourself, you might be able to find a glass studio in your area that offers classes.
With practice, you can do it yourself. If not, a local glassblower will be able to make pieces from your mold, for a decent price. Most traditional wooden molds are made from a solid piece of wood. The interior shape is hollowed out on a wood lathe, which requires a tremendous amount of skill and a special cutting jig that is mounted on the lathe.
After the inside shape is removed, the wood is then split if the shape has undercuts and air holes are drilled through the walls. For production glassblowing, the molds are usually made from graphite or metal. The advantage is that they will last a very very long time. The wood mold shown here is much much cheaper and easier to make, and you can still produce dozens upon dozens of pieces before it wears out. Plaster can also be used to make molds, but I find this very tedious and messy and prefer making these wooden molds instead.
Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson. I wanted to make more of the drinking glasses that I'd designed a few years ago. I was down to one glass, blown by my mentor, the late Charlie Meaker, and became a bit concerned about breaking it.
So I decided to make some backups that I could use everyday without worry. The shape of my glass is pretty basic, just a low and wide drinking glass with a chamfered base. It doesn't have undercuts, so the mold-making is simple, and the glass can pull straight out the top after it's blown.
Any shape with undercuts will require a split mold, which complicates things a little bit. A split mold will usually need an assistant to hold it shut, or some kind of catch to keep it together. When designing a glass, it's most important to think about what you want to drink. In this case, I made a glass for all around use, from water, juice, beer, to wine or whiskey.
It's blown fairly thin at the rim, but thicker at the base so it's still durable and has a good weight to it. It's just as important to think about ergonomics. A glass that is too wide or too tall can be awkward to hold.
Picking it up a glass should be easy, comfortable, and natural. A glass with a thick rim isn't very pleasant to drink from, and a very thin rim can feel too delicate for anything other than wine. Glasses come in all shapes and sizes. Whiskey glasses are usually heavy, wide, and low. For juice, I like a tall and narrow glass.
Shot glasses are always small and durable, and beer glasses can be so big they need handles. Wine glasses have a whole science attached to them, just look at the selection offered by a company like Riedel. For hot drinks, like coffee and tea, I prefer something ceramic. They usually have a handle, because the heat transfers to the walls and it can be too hot to hold.
This mold-making technique can also be used to create larger glass pieces, like vases. Think about what kind of flowers will be displayed.
How long are the stems?